"Are you enjoying yourself?" asked our blonde tour guide who had dyed his short hair red. "My name is Dr. Phil. I will tell you." Dr. Phil droned on and on over an intercom that echoed as we chugged around the shores of Acapulco in a catamaran. We missed much of what he said. "How is my English?" he would ask. I think everyone thought he was gay but none of us were sure how gay, especially after he told us he had two teenage daughters who liked going to Starbucks.
Everyone enjoyed the classic Mexican buffet of tacos, guacomale, sour cream and fried beans, although it was only mid morning. I didn't see any plates go back unfinished. The tour also kept us in complimentary drinks of beer, pop and water. The drinks were especially welcome because the temperatures were in the mid nineties from the early morning on.
Home after home of the wealthy were pointed out. Oprah, Sylvester Stallone, Bill Gates. Before each owner was revealed Phil would play a trivia game with us. "You know this person? They are big and strong in the movies." He prolonged revealing the name so he could regale us with more stories. We reached the famous cliffs where the iconic divers have entertained tourists for 50 years. "A special show for you!" said Dr. Phil. Who knows, maybe it was. The boat moved in close, we watched some dives and the divers came aboard for photos and tips. Very cool to see these risk takers up close. The story came out that one month back, a diver had misjudged the waves and broken two fingers and a collarbone. The water is only nine feet deep so I'm not surprised.
"I enjoy my job! Are you having fun yet?" said our afternoon guide, Dr. Phil. My mother is even better a tour guide than me! Teachers and doctors and liars... I mean lawyers. It's my Chicago accent. I went to Chicago to study English. Can you understand me OK?"
We couldn't believe our luck. Of all the tour guides, we'd landed the same one for the afternoon. This time we moved around the city by bus, listening to the same jokes we'd heard all morning. When our red headed, blonde began the trivia questions about celebrities, Rick, who was sitting near the front, sang out the answers but Dr. Phil plowed on with the stories as if he hadn't heard. We finished at the divers again but this time we sat, watching from a famous hotel balcony high above the cliffs, while we slurped a free cocktail. Of the Acapulco divers, we can now say, "Been there done that!"
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
We Love Guatemala
Colour colour colour! We were delighted with the shops on the port especially set up for us. It was a cheerful and artfully set up place to be. We were whisked off to Antigua though for our tour, and I'll bet I wasn't the only one wishing we were staying closer to the ship. The bus ride was more than an hour which meant almost three hours sitting! As it turned out we were delighted to reboard just to enjoy the air-conditioning. The temperature hovered above 90º. We were constantly searching out shade.
Volcanoes were all around us during the journey. Our guide was a perky young English student called Selmi. She did her best to entertain us with a silly game of introducing ourselves. The farms along the route had sugar cane and coffee. We were surprised to see the shade trees that had been planted on the coffee plantations. The coffee plants need dappled sunlight.
La Antigua was full of sellers who bargained, "two for twenty, okay two for fifteen, okay what you pay? Beezness is beezness." You had to move quickly, and not look interested, which was difficult when we wanted to see it all. I was sad to hear the guide say that rural families had as many as twenty children in order to help the family earn more money. Kids don't go to school as they are required to do in Costa RIca. Yet, Guatemala was more prosperous than Nicaragua which seems politically unstable still.
Paul and Pat were almost taken in by a scam. We think they were after Pat's watch. Two attractive girls asked Pat to take their picture with their camera. Once done, they asked her to help with a school assignment where they took their photo with a watch, pretending to drop the watch in the fountain to illustrate waterproof. Of course, they would only pretend. "SCAM" I hissed as I came up to them. "Can you run faster than they can?" "no no not scam" claimed the girls, "you can hold the camera" Pat figured her watch was worth more than the camera, but was willing to sacrifice Paul's watch. The girls disappeared. We still wonder. Meanwhile, Dave had been taking a movie of it all from a distance.
On our return, we shopped and found a stand that opened a coconut for us, asked us to sip a bit, and replenished the space with rum. Three bucks! There's nothing like a bit of that with the heat of the tropics. We drank, chatted with friends from the ship, and then went back to the room to fondle the colourful treasures we'd bought before going to dinner and starting all over again.
Volcanoes were all around us during the journey. Our guide was a perky young English student called Selmi. She did her best to entertain us with a silly game of introducing ourselves. The farms along the route had sugar cane and coffee. We were surprised to see the shade trees that had been planted on the coffee plantations. The coffee plants need dappled sunlight.
La Antigua was full of sellers who bargained, "two for twenty, okay two for fifteen, okay what you pay? Beezness is beezness." You had to move quickly, and not look interested, which was difficult when we wanted to see it all. I was sad to hear the guide say that rural families had as many as twenty children in order to help the family earn more money. Kids don't go to school as they are required to do in Costa RIca. Yet, Guatemala was more prosperous than Nicaragua which seems politically unstable still.
Paul and Pat were almost taken in by a scam. We think they were after Pat's watch. Two attractive girls asked Pat to take their picture with their camera. Once done, they asked her to help with a school assignment where they took their photo with a watch, pretending to drop the watch in the fountain to illustrate waterproof. Of course, they would only pretend. "SCAM" I hissed as I came up to them. "Can you run faster than they can?" "no no not scam" claimed the girls, "you can hold the camera" Pat figured her watch was worth more than the camera, but was willing to sacrifice Paul's watch. The girls disappeared. We still wonder. Meanwhile, Dave had been taking a movie of it all from a distance.
On our return, we shopped and found a stand that opened a coconut for us, asked us to sip a bit, and replenished the space with rum. Three bucks! There's nothing like a bit of that with the heat of the tropics. We drank, chatted with friends from the ship, and then went back to the room to fondle the colourful treasures we'd bought before going to dinner and starting all over again.
Nicaragua Suffering
Several bus loads of passengers chose the one and a half hour trip to "Colonial Leone" in Nicaragua. It was very hot, probably more than 90º F. A bottle of water was handed to us as we boarded the bus. Eduardo, the guide immediately began his patter about the country's woes and things we passed. It was difficult not to compare what we were seeing to our trip in Costa Rica the day before. As the bus passed by farm after farm of ramshackle houses and villages with rusty corrugated roofs, it became apparent that Nicaragua was not enjoying the same prosperity as their neighbour. They'd been retarded by war and incompetent government. "We are catching up," Eduardo explained. "Many improvements have happened in the last five years. We are learning from the Costa Ricans how to attract tourists. You will see our beautiful country"
Volcanoes were all around us as we drove toward the five hundred year old town of Leone. Later we learned that one tour bus spotted smoke when the clouds lifted. The country side is the lush tropical green of bananas, sugar cane and palms. Hibiscus grows wild along with many other colourful flowers.
Our destination was somewhat disappointing. Eduardo lead us up a busy, crowded road into the square where hundreds of people, many of them school children in crisp uniforms, stood or sat socializing. Street vendors, selling whistles, fabric, belts, pottery and many other crafts landed on us like locusts in a corn patch. Loud music coming from a public address system made conversation difficult. The 550 year old cathedral off the central square is a concrete structure, once painted, but now dull gray, badly eroded and textured like worn sandpaper. Our group followed Eduardo into the cathedral where we discover a pack of workers have moved everything from the cavernous space into a disorderly pile while they slosh buckets of water across the floor with brooms. Our group climbed the very narrow stairway to gain views of the city from the roof. Later we spent our time people watching in a very noisy cafe while we drank the local "Victoria" beer with all the other sweating tourists.
Joan and I decided to buy some of the very attractive pottery that was for sale almost everywhere. We began negotiations on the street outside the cafe with a youth of about 16. All of us, including the boy, have sweat fountains on our foreheads. Traffic noise and jostling crowds are in our face. Joan was happy to pay $5 a pot, thinking we will be making a small contribution to the boy's wefare. He etched NICARAGUA and the date into the bottom of one pot with a special stylus and assured us, "Yes, I make them!" Later we become suspicious since other vendors claimed the same thing. On a street near the bus I found two colourful, wrinkled but delightful, old ladies who posed together for a dollar. They made my day!
Volcanoes were all around us as we drove toward the five hundred year old town of Leone. Later we learned that one tour bus spotted smoke when the clouds lifted. The country side is the lush tropical green of bananas, sugar cane and palms. Hibiscus grows wild along with many other colourful flowers.
Our destination was somewhat disappointing. Eduardo lead us up a busy, crowded road into the square where hundreds of people, many of them school children in crisp uniforms, stood or sat socializing. Street vendors, selling whistles, fabric, belts, pottery and many other crafts landed on us like locusts in a corn patch. Loud music coming from a public address system made conversation difficult. The 550 year old cathedral off the central square is a concrete structure, once painted, but now dull gray, badly eroded and textured like worn sandpaper. Our group followed Eduardo into the cathedral where we discover a pack of workers have moved everything from the cavernous space into a disorderly pile while they slosh buckets of water across the floor with brooms. Our group climbed the very narrow stairway to gain views of the city from the roof. Later we spent our time people watching in a very noisy cafe while we drank the local "Victoria" beer with all the other sweating tourists.
Joan and I decided to buy some of the very attractive pottery that was for sale almost everywhere. We began negotiations on the street outside the cafe with a youth of about 16. All of us, including the boy, have sweat fountains on our foreheads. Traffic noise and jostling crowds are in our face. Joan was happy to pay $5 a pot, thinking we will be making a small contribution to the boy's wefare. He etched NICARAGUA and the date into the bottom of one pot with a special stylus and assured us, "Yes, I make them!" Later we become suspicious since other vendors claimed the same thing. On a street near the bus I found two colourful, wrinkled but delightful, old ladies who posed together for a dollar. They made my day!
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Music Nostalgia
A few days ago, on day 5 of this trip, a group called "Catch a Wave" played their first concert as the Beatles. We raved about them. I will check their website when the internet is more reliable. People loved hearing all the old tunes played by a group wearing wigs, costumes and moving like the original group.
Two nights ago they appeared on the pool deck as the Beach Boys. All reports said they were fantastic. Last night they were the headliners at the Vista Lounge. It was a trip through the 60s. All the number one hits choreographed with costumes, movement and names came at us in chronological order. Great fun!
Two nights ago they appeared on the pool deck as the Beach Boys. All reports said they were fantastic. Last night they were the headliners at the Vista Lounge. It was a trip through the 60s. All the number one hits choreographed with costumes, movement and names came at us in chronological order. Great fun!
Costa Rica Favourites
"My name is Max. Welcome! You are fortunate to be part of my group in bus 11." And so began our 8 hours in Costa Rica. Max was right! He was an exceptional guide, speaker and scholar. He had a degree in biology and environmental science. He took every opportunity to remind us of Costa Rica's fantastic environmental record and sing its praises for having 23% of its land protected. He also talked non-stop during the one hour bus ride each way about most facets of Costa Rican life. "You should be a politician." someone called out. "Aren't I smarter than that?" he retorted.
"First we will go to the very special Tarcoles River where I hope you will experience a wildlife overload so you will not expect too much on the aerial tram." It played out almost exactly as Max called it. The river was a banquet of wildlife, especially crocodiles. We saw macaws, egrets, kingfishers, and many other birds. The locals feed and play with the crocodiles so they don't kill kids and livestock, consequently our driver was able to jump onto a sandbar and coax a 10 foot crocodile to stand on its tail and hind legs to grab at a towel. Everyone clicked away in awe. "I think it's better that they feed these animals than kill them!" Max said. Fresh fruit was available after our hour and a half on the water. Needless to say eveyone was dripping wet from the 90º temperatures and happy to reboard the cool bus.
The second stop was a major development with restaurant and gift shop at the base of very steep jungle hill. It was swarming with tourists taking walks in a tropical garden, riding a gondola over the canopy or taking a zip line through the forest. We sweated through lunch and a lineup before boarding the gondola which slowly carried us up the hillside and back. Each car of 8 carried its own naturalist but animals were hard to spot. Most of the discussion was about plants. The walk through the garden was great. We were able to touch and smell many plants such as ginger and nutmeg. We also saw a poisonous frog and learned much about jungle snakes which were in terrariums along the route. Again we rejoiced when our sweating bodies boarded the bus.
"First we will go to the very special Tarcoles River where I hope you will experience a wildlife overload so you will not expect too much on the aerial tram." It played out almost exactly as Max called it. The river was a banquet of wildlife, especially crocodiles. We saw macaws, egrets, kingfishers, and many other birds. The locals feed and play with the crocodiles so they don't kill kids and livestock, consequently our driver was able to jump onto a sandbar and coax a 10 foot crocodile to stand on its tail and hind legs to grab at a towel. Everyone clicked away in awe. "I think it's better that they feed these animals than kill them!" Max said. Fresh fruit was available after our hour and a half on the water. Needless to say eveyone was dripping wet from the 90º temperatures and happy to reboard the cool bus.
The second stop was a major development with restaurant and gift shop at the base of very steep jungle hill. It was swarming with tourists taking walks in a tropical garden, riding a gondola over the canopy or taking a zip line through the forest. We sweated through lunch and a lineup before boarding the gondola which slowly carried us up the hillside and back. Each car of 8 carried its own naturalist but animals were hard to spot. Most of the discussion was about plants. The walk through the garden was great. We were able to touch and smell many plants such as ginger and nutmeg. We also saw a poisonous frog and learned much about jungle snakes which were in terrariums along the route. Again we rejoiced when our sweating bodies boarded the bus.
Corcovado National Park
It came as a compete surprise when the ship turned into the Golfo Dulce along the shores of Corcovado National Park in Costa Rica. It was the same park I'd hiked in with Wayne five years ago. We'd seen monkeys and numerous birds. Glowing reports of the protected wildlife and biodiversity came over our PA. There was very little to see from the water. Great excitement arose when an odd shaped log passed by. We knew we shouldn't complain since the day was glorious and the views around quite spectacular.
Loving Columbia
Our guide, Claudia, in Cartegena, Columbia ran a guiding service that Joan found on the internet. She was great! She and her driver arrived by 7:30 am in a 7 passenger, air-conditioned van on the dock directly opposite the gangplank. It was a perfect pickup. The walk along the dock to the bus parking was about a kilometer, so getting picked up at the ship saved several minutes during our short, 5 hour port of call.
Our first stop after a drive across town, was the only hill in the entire city. A monastery was perched atop the hill with 360º views of Cartegena. We had our first of many run ins with street vendors selling cigars, T-shirts and watches. Claudia pointed out points where invading ships had tried to enter. The most stunning victory for the Spanish holding the fort in about 1741 was against an English armada of 186 ships. The Spanish guns managed to sink about a half of them before the Brits backed off. Later on the tour we saw a building that Sir Francis Drake took over as his headquarters in 1586 while he sacked the town. It had been the governor's residence. He found evidence there that suggested the governor had been forewarned by the Queen of Spain which angered him so much he burned the place down.
A jewelry shop specializing in Columbian emeralds, had a display of raw ores and a great video on prospecting and mining for emeralds. Of course we saw churches. What tour in South America doesn't? But is wasn't belaboured and the buildings were interesting. One had the remains, with skull very evident, of a famous Jesuit, Pedro Claver, who had aided slaves and became a saint.
I had my picture taken holding a sloth! Who knew sloths could be pets. He moved almost not at all and his hair wasn't soft like Blarney but rather coarse and stiff. He had that sleepy look that sloths get when they're anywhere.
We bought a mole at a small shop that was going out of business. Twelve dollars for a colourful 12X16 design that surely took someone many hours! We also had a cup of iced Columbian coffee that was more memorable than the royal wedding!
It was hot in Cartagena! Probably about 90º! Our walks were slow and short. The van was kept running and cool, and thankfully dropped us a few steps from the gangplank. Our overall impression of Cartagena was very positive. Eveyone of us was impressed with the city's cleanliness and level of energy. None of us could imagine driving there. Rules? What rules? Claudia was wonderful. Her price, at about $70 each, was slightly better than we coud have expected using the bus tours provided by the ship.
Our first stop after a drive across town, was the only hill in the entire city. A monastery was perched atop the hill with 360º views of Cartegena. We had our first of many run ins with street vendors selling cigars, T-shirts and watches. Claudia pointed out points where invading ships had tried to enter. The most stunning victory for the Spanish holding the fort in about 1741 was against an English armada of 186 ships. The Spanish guns managed to sink about a half of them before the Brits backed off. Later on the tour we saw a building that Sir Francis Drake took over as his headquarters in 1586 while he sacked the town. It had been the governor's residence. He found evidence there that suggested the governor had been forewarned by the Queen of Spain which angered him so much he burned the place down.
A jewelry shop specializing in Columbian emeralds, had a display of raw ores and a great video on prospecting and mining for emeralds. Of course we saw churches. What tour in South America doesn't? But is wasn't belaboured and the buildings were interesting. One had the remains, with skull very evident, of a famous Jesuit, Pedro Claver, who had aided slaves and became a saint.
I had my picture taken holding a sloth! Who knew sloths could be pets. He moved almost not at all and his hair wasn't soft like Blarney but rather coarse and stiff. He had that sleepy look that sloths get when they're anywhere.
We bought a mole at a small shop that was going out of business. Twelve dollars for a colourful 12X16 design that surely took someone many hours! We also had a cup of iced Columbian coffee that was more memorable than the royal wedding!
It was hot in Cartagena! Probably about 90º! Our walks were slow and short. The van was kept running and cool, and thankfully dropped us a few steps from the gangplank. Our overall impression of Cartagena was very positive. Eveyone of us was impressed with the city's cleanliness and level of energy. None of us could imagine driving there. Rules? What rules? Claudia was wonderful. Her price, at about $70 each, was slightly better than we coud have expected using the bus tours provided by the ship.
Passing Through the Panama
"Looks like we're waiting," the guy on the next bike said. The entrance into the canal appeared before us while I sat on an excercise bike at 6 am. Many still and bobbing ships were gathered around us. We counted 27 craft of all different sizes. Two small freighters came toward us out of the entrance.
"Maybe our turn will happen after these two pass by," I said. The deck had filled with passengers when an hour later we finally moved off through the gap and into the channel leading to the locks.
Our entire day was like living a documentary on the Panama Canal. Commentary came over our tv while we loafed around our small deck. The mule trains guiding us through were so close we could wach the driver manipulate the controls. We chatted up our neighbours around the divider and took comfort from being on the shady side of the ship. Twice we left the cabin to explore other parts of the ship. The outside temperature was easily 90º. We were cautioned to wear sunscreen and hats. Joan and I found a place above the bow tucked under a glass windscreen where people were squeezing in lounge chairs. It worked for awhile but eventually the heat began to take its toll and we headed back to the cabin. Our deck and TV became our eye on the ship's progress. It was an interesting day with new views everywhere and information overload.
"Maybe our turn will happen after these two pass by," I said. The deck had filled with passengers when an hour later we finally moved off through the gap and into the channel leading to the locks.
Our entire day was like living a documentary on the Panama Canal. Commentary came over our tv while we loafed around our small deck. The mule trains guiding us through were so close we could wach the driver manipulate the controls. We chatted up our neighbours around the divider and took comfort from being on the shady side of the ship. Twice we left the cabin to explore other parts of the ship. The outside temperature was easily 90º. We were cautioned to wear sunscreen and hats. Joan and I found a place above the bow tucked under a glass windscreen where people were squeezing in lounge chairs. It worked for awhile but eventually the heat began to take its toll and we headed back to the cabin. Our deck and TV became our eye on the ship's progress. It was an interesting day with new views everywhere and information overload.
Thursday, April 28, 2011
How Hot is It?
"The maximum we've ever recorded here in Merida is 125º," said Temo, our guide. "Today must be in the 90s."
The folks who made the 8 hour bus journey to Chetchen Itza survived two hours in 104º or 42º C. The bus air conditioner could barely handle such heat, consequently the long ride back was also uncomfortable.
On our city tour there were many places where the paving stones radiated like a heaters. We stood for several minutes inside a huge church with still hot air, while droplets dripped off our foreheads and ran down our backs. Way outside our comfort zone! The metal railing outside the church were too hot to hold.
The folks who made the 8 hour bus journey to Chetchen Itza survived two hours in 104º or 42º C. The bus air conditioner could barely handle such heat, consequently the long ride back was also uncomfortable.
On our city tour there were many places where the paving stones radiated like a heaters. We stood for several minutes inside a huge church with still hot air, while droplets dripped off our foreheads and ran down our backs. Way outside our comfort zone! The metal railing outside the church were too hot to hold.
Bus No. 1 or Bus No. 2
Dos Bocas was touted by the excursion chief as a port without merit. "There's not much. It's Mexico's biggest port but it's commercial and that's it." she said. At the evening show the night before we were told there would be a "shuttle" to transport us into Paraiso, a small town about fifteen minutes away. Sounded good. The ship docked in the wee dark hours at 6 am to a fanfare of drums and recorded rhythmns. Dancers in costumes of dimly flowing white were accumulating in the shadows. A stage shape was directly below our balcony but the reception moved to the gangway which was midships. As the sun rose in front of us, people began to flow from the ship and we could read the shuttle bus schedule posted on the dock. Buses were leaving on the hour beginning at 9. We decided to take the bus at ten and spend the first hour exploring the thatched huts on the pier. By 9:30 we were becoming overheated and seeking shade. We began moving from one bit of shade to the next while we waited. Temps were already in the 80s F!
The bus felt gloriously cool. We'd boarded a number 1 bus with the promise to be delivered into town. A bus number 2 was also ready to go and we were pleased to learn that the buses were making a loop that wouild have four stops. Two were in Paraiso, one was at a chocolate factory and the fourth was a Mayan ruin with museum. Wow! All for $20. Hop on, hop off and expect a bus every hour. It sounded too good to be true. Most ship excursions started at about $50 and often cost a hundred or more! As scheduled, we stepped off in the delightful town square and enjoyed the shops and took pictures of the beautiful church and the local dancers. As the hour lapsed, a bus number 2 arrived which was heading for the chocolate factory so we happily boarded. Once again the air-conditioning was glorious. Outside temperatures were moving upwards toward 100 F as noon approached. The drive to the chocolate factory was longish and another stop at a beach area surprised us. We hadn't expected any tours or stops beyond the town. At the chocolate factory the blast of hot air whacked and wilted us as we stepped off the bus. We sweated our way through a warehouse, checked a museum set up in an authentic plantation house, sat in a hammock and sampled chocolate products. Time marched past the noon hour. We had a great debate with the volunteer helpers about whether we should take a bus 2 or bus 1 to get back to the pier. Some other passengers were convinced we would go directly back if we took a number one, so we passed up a number two that was ready to leave immediately. We waited. And waited! Thank goodness the gift shop was air conditioned. It was more than an hour before another bus arrived. It didn't go directly back. It was a number 1 going the wrong way. I soon became apparent the route and numbering was unreliable. Some folks saw nothing but the chocolate factory. The bus got us back to the ship with a mere five minutes to spare.
The bus felt gloriously cool. We'd boarded a number 1 bus with the promise to be delivered into town. A bus number 2 was also ready to go and we were pleased to learn that the buses were making a loop that wouild have four stops. Two were in Paraiso, one was at a chocolate factory and the fourth was a Mayan ruin with museum. Wow! All for $20. Hop on, hop off and expect a bus every hour. It sounded too good to be true. Most ship excursions started at about $50 and often cost a hundred or more! As scheduled, we stepped off in the delightful town square and enjoyed the shops and took pictures of the beautiful church and the local dancers. As the hour lapsed, a bus number 2 arrived which was heading for the chocolate factory so we happily boarded. Once again the air-conditioning was glorious. Outside temperatures were moving upwards toward 100 F as noon approached. The drive to the chocolate factory was longish and another stop at a beach area surprised us. We hadn't expected any tours or stops beyond the town. At the chocolate factory the blast of hot air whacked and wilted us as we stepped off the bus. We sweated our way through a warehouse, checked a museum set up in an authentic plantation house, sat in a hammock and sampled chocolate products. Time marched past the noon hour. We had a great debate with the volunteer helpers about whether we should take a bus 2 or bus 1 to get back to the pier. Some other passengers were convinced we would go directly back if we took a number one, so we passed up a number two that was ready to leave immediately. We waited. And waited! Thank goodness the gift shop was air conditioned. It was more than an hour before another bus arrived. It didn't go directly back. It was a number 1 going the wrong way. I soon became apparent the route and numbering was unreliable. Some folks saw nothing but the chocolate factory. The bus got us back to the ship with a mere five minutes to spare.
Rafting the Actopan River
Our ticket read, "Be prepared to get wet. Leave your valuables on the ship. Bring water, sunblock and a hat." It was all the issues that weren't mentioned that made some of us nervous. They provided bottled water as we stepped on the bus. I didn't need to lug a large bottle off the ship. We could have taken a change of cloths, in fact there was a changeroom with a shower after we stepped out of the rafts. Putting on sunblock probably was unnecessary because much of the trip was in shade and we were in and out of the water frequently. The bus was ours to leave things behind. I could have had a camera and a few pictures for the beginning launch and then had our tour guide deliver it to the lift out location. A hat was helpful but not essential because everyone was issued a special helmet for protection against rocks. Some of us left our caps on under our helmets.
Washroom facilities were at the river's edge and on the bus. They weren't well explained. Paddlers who changed before loading, did so in the bus washroom.
The most daunting challenge for the paddlers was a steep ladder leading down a cliff to a walkway that crossed below a tumbling, roaring waterfall. The walk took us to a side pool shaded by a high cliff, covered in vines and other clinging plants. It was truly a spectacular spot. We were invited to swim with our helmets and life preservers in place. Many of us took up the offer and we were soon taking great leaps into the refreshing pool from a large flat boulder. We were cautioned to "keep our mouths closed," but... Stepping into the boats was also a challenge for a few. The slope down to the river was steep with precarious footing on rough, loose material.
The river was narrow and often shaded by the branches of mango trees. The rapids were constant over the entire 15 miles although never beyond the level two category. We were four to a small raft with a guide, paddling on the command "avante" whenever we needed momentum to carry us around an obstruction. Where other larger rivers might offer more challenging rapids, the Actopan offered charm and interest. People were fishing, swimming, washing clothes or lounging at many of the quieter spots. Each time we paused to wait for a raft to catch up, several of us jumped in the water to cool off. There were a few places where rocks loomed up to give us a little excitement but mostly the ride was brisk but smooth over 14 miles. Once we had to duck low to pass under a bridge. Another time we had to portage around a rustic, foot bridge that hung just above the water. Several times we ducked for low hanging branches.
Lunch was two tuna fish sandwiches and an apple in a styrofoam box lifted from a larger styrofoam cooler. We had been advised not to eat fresh fruit without peeling it. I wondered how long the sandwiches had been sitting out but dug in anyway. Many people found a shower and change room but I boarded the bus wet since I hadn't been told changing was possible.
Washroom facilities were at the river's edge and on the bus. They weren't well explained. Paddlers who changed before loading, did so in the bus washroom.
The most daunting challenge for the paddlers was a steep ladder leading down a cliff to a walkway that crossed below a tumbling, roaring waterfall. The walk took us to a side pool shaded by a high cliff, covered in vines and other clinging plants. It was truly a spectacular spot. We were invited to swim with our helmets and life preservers in place. Many of us took up the offer and we were soon taking great leaps into the refreshing pool from a large flat boulder. We were cautioned to "keep our mouths closed," but... Stepping into the boats was also a challenge for a few. The slope down to the river was steep with precarious footing on rough, loose material.
The river was narrow and often shaded by the branches of mango trees. The rapids were constant over the entire 15 miles although never beyond the level two category. We were four to a small raft with a guide, paddling on the command "avante" whenever we needed momentum to carry us around an obstruction. Where other larger rivers might offer more challenging rapids, the Actopan offered charm and interest. People were fishing, swimming, washing clothes or lounging at many of the quieter spots. Each time we paused to wait for a raft to catch up, several of us jumped in the water to cool off. There were a few places where rocks loomed up to give us a little excitement but mostly the ride was brisk but smooth over 14 miles. Once we had to duck low to pass under a bridge. Another time we had to portage around a rustic, foot bridge that hung just above the water. Several times we ducked for low hanging branches.
Lunch was two tuna fish sandwiches and an apple in a styrofoam box lifted from a larger styrofoam cooler. We had been advised not to eat fresh fruit without peeling it. I wondered how long the sandwiches had been sitting out but dug in anyway. Many people found a shower and change room but I boarded the bus wet since I hadn't been told changing was possible.
Boarding Boredom
Our status as repeat cruisers with Holland America allowed us to board at noon instead of mid afternoon like the first timers. Who wouldn't take advantage of a free lunch! We were in our taxi heading for the pier shortly after twelve. "This is working out great!" I said as Joan checked her watch. "We'll be onboard in perfect time for lunch."
The taxi slowed to a crawl and stopped in a traffic jam as we approached the ship. Oops! Here we go I thought. The scene in front of the terminal building was crowded and busy with cars and buses. We waited patiently in the cab until a traffic person called us for unloading. Inside forms for filling were placed in our hands. Next a zig zag line to the long counter for registration. We were quickly photographed and handed our boarding card. "Looking good!" Joan said.
We were asked to follow a parade of passengers out of the building, along a narrow sidewalk path to a second building already almost filled with people sitting and waiting. Everyone carried a numbered card, ours was 22. We waited and waited and waited some more as groups were called to board. It was revealed that the ship was undergoing a deep cleaning. Twenty-five cases of Norwalk had emerged on the previous cruise. Our final boarding time was near 2 oclock. Several people complained as we retraced the long walk back to the gangway. Two ladies who sat near us discovered their husbands had boarded earlier simply because they'd gone off to park the car.
The taxi slowed to a crawl and stopped in a traffic jam as we approached the ship. Oops! Here we go I thought. The scene in front of the terminal building was crowded and busy with cars and buses. We waited patiently in the cab until a traffic person called us for unloading. Inside forms for filling were placed in our hands. Next a zig zag line to the long counter for registration. We were quickly photographed and handed our boarding card. "Looking good!" Joan said.
We were asked to follow a parade of passengers out of the building, along a narrow sidewalk path to a second building already almost filled with people sitting and waiting. Everyone carried a numbered card, ours was 22. We waited and waited and waited some more as groups were called to board. It was revealed that the ship was undergoing a deep cleaning. Twenty-five cases of Norwalk had emerged on the previous cruise. Our final boarding time was near 2 oclock. Several people complained as we retraced the long walk back to the gangway. Two ladies who sat near us discovered their husbands had boarded earlier simply because they'd gone off to park the car.
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Living the Good Life
Our hotel, The Pillars, has turned out to be centrally situated along the main river route of the water taxi. The boat plucked us right off the dock in to the front of the hotel. We paid $20 for hop on hop off 24 hour tickets. On the trip into the centre of Fort Lauderdale, the ferry captain told stories about the people who own the multi-million dollar houses along the river and the hundreds of huge yachts berthed down miles of canals. We noticed the canals as we flew in. They're like a series of giant mazes. The houses often cost 20 to 30 million. How can a single couple live in 20,000 square feet? The captain suggested they only bump into each other every second week. Another huge place was owned by a confirmed bachelor. Directly across the channel from our hotel, financier had purchased a second double lot beside his mansion, taken down the old houses and planted lawn to run his two dogs, Cash and Flow. We can't relate to the wealth evident here.
I like the way this hotel is designed. It has a kind of deep south feel. Two floors of connected, open balconies are supported by round columns, the pillars. All white, louvered doors and windows help cool a hot, hot climate. The pavers on the stairs, balconies and pool deck are off-white, like dark limestone. All the rooms look over the kidney-shaped pool but a sideways glance allows glimpses of the river. Orchids, palms, figs and hibiscus fringe the property. We had a great breakfast of Eggs Benedict served on the waterside terrace.
Joan if jubilant. Her bag was delivered about noon and she likes the new clothes she bought last night during the emergency. She's a double winner! Let's hope she finds room in her bag to stuff it all.
We rode the water taxi all day and watched the sunset on our final trip home. Great day and wonderful to be warm.
I like the way this hotel is designed. It has a kind of deep south feel. Two floors of connected, open balconies are supported by round columns, the pillars. All white, louvered doors and windows help cool a hot, hot climate. The pavers on the stairs, balconies and pool deck are off-white, like dark limestone. All the rooms look over the kidney-shaped pool but a sideways glance allows glimpses of the river. Orchids, palms, figs and hibiscus fringe the property. We had a great breakfast of Eggs Benedict served on the waterside terrace.
Joan if jubilant. Her bag was delivered about noon and she likes the new clothes she bought last night during the emergency. She's a double winner! Let's hope she finds room in her bag to stuff it all.
We rode the water taxi all day and watched the sunset on our final trip home. Great day and wonderful to be warm.
Canadians Warming
The baggage conveyor came to a final stop. Perhaps a dozen bags remained unclaimed. "Well it's not here!" Joan said a little blurry eyed.
We went through the process along with several other folks including a chap from Ottawa who was also planning a cruise two days forward. Joan was devastated! Nothing to wear but the sweaty things on her body designed for Chicago cold. It was 8 by the time our taxi dropped us at the Pillars, our fine hotel by the water. But could we enjoy this? We quickly checked in then booked another taxi and headed off to a mall. Joan mustered her shopper's nose and found an outfit at Macy's before the mall closed at nine. We even had time for a very fine pizza. Back at the hotel we tracked the bag online and discovered it had been found and would be delivered the next day. It was all a ruse to go shopping!
We went through the process along with several other folks including a chap from Ottawa who was also planning a cruise two days forward. Joan was devastated! Nothing to wear but the sweaty things on her body designed for Chicago cold. It was 8 by the time our taxi dropped us at the Pillars, our fine hotel by the water. But could we enjoy this? We quickly checked in then booked another taxi and headed off to a mall. Joan mustered her shopper's nose and found an outfit at Macy's before the mall closed at nine. We even had time for a very fine pizza. Back at the hotel we tracked the bag online and discovered it had been found and would be delivered the next day. It was all a ruse to go shopping!
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Still Frozen in Chicago
Last night's dinner at the Grand Lux Cafe was excellent. I'll post a picture later. We were content with two dishes for two and a box of fresh baked cookies.
This morning is NOt raining but still very cold. We're wearing everything we brought, "put in at the last minute" as Joan said. Who would have thought we'd run into this? We'll peel it all off at the airport in a few minutes and stow it away until Vancouver.
We've just returned from walking the Magnificent Mile along Michigan Ave. All the big brands are found along this street. One surprise was Lamborghini. "How did they get those cars in there?" The famous water tower, sole survivor of the great fire, sits in the centre of the mile next to the Hilton and surrounded by skyscrapers. Turns out Chicago was the first city to build the "skyscraper". A guy named Lewis Sullivan seems to have been responsible.
This morning is NOt raining but still very cold. We're wearing everything we brought, "put in at the last minute" as Joan said. Who would have thought we'd run into this? We'll peel it all off at the airport in a few minutes and stow it away until Vancouver.
We've just returned from walking the Magnificent Mile along Michigan Ave. All the big brands are found along this street. One surprise was Lamborghini. "How did they get those cars in there?" The famous water tower, sole survivor of the great fire, sits in the centre of the mile next to the Hilton and surrounded by skyscrapers. Turns out Chicago was the first city to build the "skyscraper". A guy named Lewis Sullivan seems to have been responsible.
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Cold, Cold Chicago
"It's not supposed to be this cold in mid April," the girl in the Garmin shop said. I had just complained that I couldn't get a signal in the rain and wind between the buildings.
"Who would believe this is spring?" I heard someone at a door into the mall say to a friend. Umbrellas were blowing out backwards. Hoods are up. I'm wearing gloves. We're cold and miserable after about 30 minutes outside. Yuk!
Dinner last night was excellent and memorable at Quartino's, a closeby Italian restaurant.
We took a walk first thing this morning but turned back in the cold. We decided to use a taxi for our next attempt. The rain was blowing sideways when we hustled up the stairs into the Chicago Cultural Centre. The main lobby area had clusters of street folks sitting around gabbing and visiting. It was an amazing place to visit. http://www.explorechicago.org/city/en/supporting_narrative/attractions/dca_tourism/Chicago_Cultural_Center.html
The coffee and snacks at the cafe were less than stellar but we got our next idea to beat the weather from the information counter. She directed us to subterranean Chicago. A network of underground sidewalks crossed beneath our location. We used an elevator from the Cultural Center and walked underground to City Hall. Our next plan to catch a tour bus turned out badly. We saw a couple pass but never seemed to be in the right location to catch one.
"Did you see that? That bus sign said Navy Pier." And so we jumped on an ordinary transit bus for a dollar and got whisked down to our next destination, the Smith Museum of Stained Glass. We wandered here. The Pier has endless attractions. It reminded me of the Halifax waterfront.
I found one geocache out on the pier while Joan busied herself checking out the stained glass panels. It was a struggle because I had to stand outside to get a satellite signal. Torture! The search was inside so I felt good when I was successful. We had a fast NOT memorable lunch at a cafe on the Pier and bussed back the way we had come.
"Who would believe this is spring?" I heard someone at a door into the mall say to a friend. Umbrellas were blowing out backwards. Hoods are up. I'm wearing gloves. We're cold and miserable after about 30 minutes outside. Yuk!
Dinner last night was excellent and memorable at Quartino's, a closeby Italian restaurant.
We took a walk first thing this morning but turned back in the cold. We decided to use a taxi for our next attempt. The rain was blowing sideways when we hustled up the stairs into the Chicago Cultural Centre. The main lobby area had clusters of street folks sitting around gabbing and visiting. It was an amazing place to visit. http://www.explorechicago.org/city/en/supporting_narrative/attractions/dca_tourism/Chicago_Cultural_Center.html
The coffee and snacks at the cafe were less than stellar but we got our next idea to beat the weather from the information counter. She directed us to subterranean Chicago. A network of underground sidewalks crossed beneath our location. We used an elevator from the Cultural Center and walked underground to City Hall. Our next plan to catch a tour bus turned out badly. We saw a couple pass but never seemed to be in the right location to catch one.
"Did you see that? That bus sign said Navy Pier." And so we jumped on an ordinary transit bus for a dollar and got whisked down to our next destination, the Smith Museum of Stained Glass. We wandered here. The Pier has endless attractions. It reminded me of the Halifax waterfront.
I found one geocache out on the pier while Joan busied herself checking out the stained glass panels. It was a struggle because I had to stand outside to get a satellite signal. Torture! The search was inside so I felt good when I was successful. We had a fast NOT memorable lunch at a cafe on the Pier and bussed back the way we had come.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
One Week Countdown
We're off next Monday but face a busy week ahead. We think everything is under control but as the week advances the stress will build.
One big issue is the garden. We have Ken, the gardener, working two hours each week and Paul and Jared managing the lawns and pots. Please don't let me come back to a sea of weeds and over grown shrubs.
How will Blarney fare at my sister's? We've had him out walking with her new dog, Allie, and they chase around like life long buddies. We will both suffer some agony when we leave him. Let's hope it's a holiday for him too.
All the electronics is ready to go. We're taking the video camera on this trip which brings our total cameras to three. We'll take advantage of the video camera's 30X zoom when we pass through the canal. The current plan is to take along ipads, ipods and laptop. Who needs all this stuff? It's nuts!
One big issue is the garden. We have Ken, the gardener, working two hours each week and Paul and Jared managing the lawns and pots. Please don't let me come back to a sea of weeds and over grown shrubs.
How will Blarney fare at my sister's? We've had him out walking with her new dog, Allie, and they chase around like life long buddies. We will both suffer some agony when we leave him. Let's hope it's a holiday for him too.
All the electronics is ready to go. We're taking the video camera on this trip which brings our total cameras to three. We'll take advantage of the video camera's 30X zoom when we pass through the canal. The current plan is to take along ipads, ipods and laptop. Who needs all this stuff? It's nuts!
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